Backpacking: 7.3 miles + 9.2 miles
Part 3 of our 10-day trip. Check it out from the beginning or maybe from DAY 2-3 CANYONLANDS – ISLAND IN THE SKY.
We checked in at the ranger station and found out the canyons we planned on hiking in were okay, but the canyon we were hiking out in should be avoided if there was any additional rain, which was not exactly worth the 4-hour delay, but it was worth the hours I would have worried. Everything about this Utah hike was interesting, the hike started in a high desert and then quickly changed to cyanobacteria life, and then lush vegetation similar to Oregon. We made our way through a natural tunnel to a 4’ rock ‘jump’, a dry climate like Texas, and the remains of a flash flood. The hike had a bit of everything. I had picked the hike because of its interests, but I had no idea how interesting our hike would be and how not so clear our guidebook was.
Everything was great as we traipsed through the different ecosystems, as we blissfully followed cairn after cairn until we got to the big rock dead-end in Lost Canyon. We saw this odd cairn about 30’ up on a rock and wondered how in the world we would get up there, when we finally scrambled the smooth rock we found there wasn’t any place to go. We pondered our dilemma for maybe 20 minutes. Will finally slid back down to the dead end and looked in the cracks at the dead end and wedged at his feet a couple of logs. The path to the other side was leap frogging from wedged log to wedged logged and ducking under rocks as you left 2’ to the next log. This was one of my more trying times, just as I stepped onto the first log my new REI water bottle fell to its demise lost forever in the dark black crack that I soon intended to move through atop a couple of old feeble logs wedged between the rocks. I mustered all my courage and stepped into the abyss, knowing taking this leap would show Noah and Isabel bravery and fear are two separate and equal emotions.
We made it through the ‘crack’ as the guidebook mentioned (failing to mention the lack of ground and just as my nerves are calming themselves as we continue our cairn trail we come to a ‘gap’ that the guidebook didn’t mention. This was another 2’ wide leap of faith, but this time the rocks were rounded into the abyss and there weren’t the logs to catch you. You had to leap from one major rock to another major rock carrying your 45+ and 55+ pound pack (we carried in our water as recommended and assumed wouldn’t be able to find any in August). It wouldn’t have been nearly as bad had it been a stream we were crossing that had ground below it, but this was actually jumping from one rock to another with a 60’ fall between the two rocks. Again, I put on my mommy courage badge and leaped. Obviously, I’m here writing this so I made it.
After another mile, we reached a 40’ ladder we went up to leave Lost Canyon and go back down into Squaw Canyon. Thankfully it was a sturdy metal ladder installed by the park service. At this point the kids couldn’t believe I took them on such and ‘awesome’ hike. I was the coolest mom ever. Little did they know we were only halfway through.
We continued along in the hot sun and as we entered Big Spring Canyon we found relief from the sun and a couple of pools from the flood waters. We learned our lesson of ALWAYS bringing your water filter no matter what, even if you don’t think there is a chance to use it (like here), because you can never have enough water. We took a break and filtered from the pool and recharged our batteries before our final push. Everyone at this point was tired and everyone’s feet ached. We had another mile and a half left. We finally reached Chesler Park near 7pm where we broke out our “dinner”. To take more water and lesson learned from Guadalupe Mountains I had the bright idea of buying Pemmican bars, everyone had one they ‘thought’ they would like. Nobody thought they were good, but we were all tired and hungry and everyone ate them. Even Isabel, who never eats what she doesn’t like and complained it tasted like chalk and had a horrible flavor.
As Will and I set up camp we let the kids rock climb and slide down. I thought this was a great idea and was laughing at how much fun they were having after a long hike, but when Noah came over to have me check it out with him I discovered both their clothes were ripped to shreds. Not just a small rip, but multiple rips. I couldn’t do anything but laugh. It was an end to an interesting day.
The next morning, I let the kids hike in their base layers. Our plan was to do a quick day hike to a place called, “The Joint”. It’s what I imagine the bottom of those crevasses we were leaping over yesterday looks like, but this bottom is sandy and has a ¼ mile trail running through it. I found it absolutely awe inspiring, Will on the other hand was experiencing my fears from the day before. He discovered he was claustrophobic! Will kept going back and forth through the tight rocks until he started to feel more comfortable. It was another great teaching moment for the kids of understanding and overcoming your fear through bravery.
We hiked out through some great scenery, climbing and descending into 3 more canyons in our 5.5 mile hike out. After yesterday and the baking sun of today we were all beat. There wasn’t much elevation gain or loss on the hike, but there were a lot of ups and downs on rocks. We neared the last mile of the hike and I was sure it was just over this ridge and then there was another ridge. Will and the kids stopped listening after about the fifth time and may never trust me again when I say we are close. Check out where we went next.